How To Lay Laminate Flooring? | DIY Laminate Installation in 12 Easy Steps

Laying laminate flooring yourself saves a significant amount of money. Professional flooring installation typically costs between $10 and $20 per square metre in labour alone. DIY flooring installation prevents you from this heavy spending, but only if you do it right.

This guide by the top flooring company covers every stage of laminate flooring installation. From checking your subfloor to nailing the finishing trim. You will find specific measurements, real techniques, and honest advice that most guides skip entirely. By following these 12 most effective steps, you can easily install laminate flooring at home.

Step 1: How Much Laminate Flooring Do You Need?

Measure the length and width of your room in metres. Multiply both these values together to get your square meterage. Always add 10% on top for cutting waste. Add 15% if you plan to lay the boards diagonally or in a herringbone pattern.

For example, a room that is 4m x 5m gives you 20m². Add 10%, and you need 22m² of boards. Check each pack for its coverage figure before buying.

Pro Tip: Buy all your packs from the same batch. Batch numbers appear on the packaging. Different batches can show slight colour variations that become visible once laid.

Step 2: Acclimatise Your Laminate Boards

This is the step most beginners skip. It causes real problems later. Laminate flooring is manufactured in controlled factory conditions. Your home has different humidity & temperature. When you bring the boards inside without acclimatising them, they expand or contract after fitting. This causes gaps, buckling, or squeaking.

Store the unopened packs flat in the room where you plan to lay them. Leave them for a minimum of 48 hours. 72 hours is better in older homes where temperatures vary.

• Stack packs no more than three high.
• Place small offcuts of wood between each pack so air can circulate.
• Never lean packs against the wall, as this causes them to warp.
• If you use underfloor heating, keep it running at a normal temperature during acclimatisation.

Step 3: Which Direction Should You Lay the Boards?

Direction affects how the finished floor looks and feels in the room. Here are the most effective approaches:

• Lay boards parallel to the longest wall. This makes most rooms feel larger and more open.
• Lay boards towards the main light source. This reduces the visibility of the joins between planks.
• In a hallway, always lay boards lengthwise along the hall. This draws the eye forward naturally.
• For a herringbone laminate flooring pattern, start from the centre of the room and work outwards.

For how to lay laminate flooring pattern styles such as herringbone or diagonal, expect more cutting waste and a more complex layout process. These patterns look outstanding, but take longer to plan.

Step 4: Tools & Materials Required For Laminate Installation

Gather everything before you start. Stopping mid-installation to find a tool breaks your workflow and can cause misaligned rows.

No.	Tool	Use/Description
01	Measuring Tape & Pencil	To measure room dimensions, row lengths and mark cut lines
02	Circular Saw, or Mitre Saw	Used for marking fast & accurate straight crosscuts & angle cuts
03	Jigsaw	Used for curved or specialised cuts
04	Rubber Mallet	Used to provide a soft strike
05	Pull Bar	This metal tool is necessary for pulling planks
06	Utility Knife	Scoring & cutting underlayments
07	String Line & Nails	Used to create a perfect straight line for the first row
08	Spacers or Packers	Place between the wall & flooring to maintain an expansion gap
09	Safety Glasses/Gloves	Protect your eyes from flying debris
10	Broom & Vacuum Cleaner	Essential for keeping the subfloor clean
11	Combination Square	Used for precise 90° crosscuts & 45° miter cuts

Materials

• Laminate flooring packs
• Underlay (see Step 2 for choosing the right type)
• Vapour barrier tape or self-adhesive underlay tape
• Skirting boards or beading to cover expansion gaps
• Threshold strips for doorways

Common Mistake: Many people use a hammer directly on laminate boards. Always use a tapping block or the off-cut from a plank. Direct hammer blows crush the edge of the click system and prevent boards from locking together properly.

Step 5: Prepare & Check Your Subfloor

The quality of your subfloor determines the quality of your finished floor. Laminate flooring is a floating floor installation, meaning it rests on top of your subfloor rather than being glued or nailed down. This makes subfloor preparation absolutely critical.

Check for Levelness

Use a long spirit level or straightedge across the floor. Laminate flooring can tolerate a maximum variation of 3mm over any 1.8 metre span. Anything beyond this causes boards to rock, click loose, or crack over time. Fill dips with self-levelling floor compound. Allow it to cure fully before continuing. Sand down any high spots using a belt sander or grinding disc.

Check for Moisture

Moisture is the biggest enemy of any flooring installation. This check is especially important when laying laminate flooring on concrete. Tape a 1 metre square piece of polythene sheet firmly to the concrete using duct tape around all edges. Leave it for 24 to 48 hours. Lift it and check the underside. If you see condensation or damp patches, your concrete has excessive moisture.

For a more accurate reading, use a professional moisture meter. Concrete subfloors must read 12% or below on a prong test, or 3% or below on a digital moisture meter. If your concrete fails this test, investigate the source of damp before continuing.

Concrete Subfloors

• Apply a damp-proof membrane if moisture levels are borderline
• Wait for the new concrete to cure for a minimum of 60 days before fitting any flooring
• Fill all cracks and holes with floor-levelling compound

Timber Subfloors

• Check for and screw down any squeaky or loose boards
• Ensure no nail heads or screws protrude above the surface
• Sand down any edges that sit higher than neighbouring boards
• Check for rot or woodworm and treat before proceeding

Existing Tile Subfloors

You can lay laminate flooring over existing tiles if they are firmly fixed and level. Any loose tiles must be re-adhered or removed and filled. Grout lines deeper than 3mm need to be filled and levelled.

Pro Tip: Remove door skirting boards before you start, if possible. This allows boards to slide cleanly underneath and avoids the need for visible trims. Use a flush-cut saw to undercut the bottom of door frames so the laminate slides neatly underneath. 

Step 6: Choose & Lay Your Underlay

Underlay is not optional. Every laminate flooring installation needs it regardless of whether you lay onto concrete or timber. It serves multiple important functions that directly affect the feel, sound, and lifespan of your floor.

What Underlay Does

• Absorbs impact sound, so footsteps are quieter
• Provides thermal insulation beneath the floor
• Compensates for minor subfloor imperfections up to 2mm
• Acts as a moisture barrier between the subfloor and the boards
• Makes boards feel more comfortable underfoot

Types of Underlay

Foam underlay is the most affordable option. It works well on concrete subfloors and includes an integrated damp-proof membrane. It compresses easily and suits most standard laminate boards.

Fibreboard underlay offers better insulation and more effective levelling of minor imperfections. It suits timber subfloors particularly well. If you use fibreboard on concrete, add a separate polythene damp-proof membrane beneath it.

Combination underlay includes both foam cushioning and a built-in moisture barrier in a single product. It is the most convenient option for concrete subfloors and is ideal for busy rooms.

An acoustic underlay provides maximum sound reduction. It is worth the extra cost in flats and semi-detached homes where noise between floors is an issue.

Underlay for Underfloor Heating

If you use underfloor heating, choose an underlay with a low tog rating. The maximum recommended tog value for use with underfloor heating is 1.5 tog. High tog underlays act as insulation and reduce heating efficiency significantly.

How to Lay the Underlay

1. Roll out the underlay in the same direction you plan to lay the laminate boards.
2. Push it tight against the starting wall.
3. Butt each row of underlay tightly against the previous row without overlapping.
4. Use vapour barrier tape to seal the joins between rows.
5. Trim the edges with a utility knife so the underlay fits cleanly to the walls.
6. Do not fix the underlay to the floor with staples or adhesive.

Important: Never overlap the underlay at the joins. Overlapping creates a ridge that the laminate boards will rock over. Butt the edges tightly and tape them flat. 

Step 7: Plan Your Layout

Spending 20 minutes planning your layout saves hours of frustration during fitting laminate flooring.

Calculate Your Row Width

Measure the total width of the room. Divide it by the width of a single plank. The remainder tells you how wide your last row will be. If the last row comes out narrower than 50mm, trim your first row to make the last row wider. Aim for the first and last rows to be similar in width for a balanced look.

For example, if the room is 3.8 metres wide and each plank is 190mm wide: 3800mm divided by 190mm=20 rows with nothing left over. That works perfectly. But if your calculation gives a final row of 30mm, cut your first row down to around 110mm so the last row also sits at approximately 110mm.

Plan For The Expansion Gap

Laminate flooring is a floating floor. It expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. Leave a 10mm to 12mm expansion gap around every fixed object. This includes all walls, door frames, pipes, and built-in furniture.

Failure to leave this gap causes the floor to buckle upwards in warm weather. This is one of the most common and costly mistakes in laminate floor installation.

Setting Up a Straight Line

Walls are rarely perfectly straight. Laying your first row against a wall without checking risks throwing every subsequent row out of alignment.

Hammer a nail near each end of the starting wall. Measure out from the wall by one plank width plus 10mm for the expansion gap. Tie a taut string line between the two nails. This gives you a perfectly straight reference line for your first row.

Step 8: Lay the First Row

The first row is the foundation of the entire floor. Take your time here. Getting it straight and square determines how well the rest of the installation goes.

1. Place 10mm spacers against the starting wall
2. Position your first board with the tongue side facing the room and the groove side facing the wall
3. The tongue side of laminate flooring is the raised edge. The groove is the recessed edge. Always face the tongue into the room so subsequent rows click onto it
4. Place the second board end-to-end with the first. Click the short ends together by angling and pressing down
5. Continue along the full length of the wall
6. Measure the gap at the end of the row. Cut the final board to length using a mitre saw or circular saw
7. Keep any off-cut that is longer than 300mm. Use it to start the next row

Cutting Tip: Always mark your cut line with a combination square and pencil. Cut laminate boards with the decorative face upward when using a hand saw or jigsaw. Cut with the decorative face downward when using a circular saw or mitre saw. This keeps chipping on the non-visible side.

Step 9: Lay Subsequent Rows & Stagger the Joints

This is where installing laminate flooring requires careful attention to pattern and structure.

Why Staggering Matters

Staggering the end joints between rows serves two purposes. First, it makes the floor structurally stronger by distributing the load across different points. Second, it looks far more natural and professional. Aligned joints create a grid-like appearance that looks cheap and mechanical.

Maintain a minimum offset of 300mm between end joints in adjacent rows. Most experienced fitters aim for 400mm or more.

How To Click Boards Together

Laminate boards connect using a click-fit or tongue-and-groove system. The method depends on your specific product, but the general technique is consistent.

1. Hold the new board at a slight angle, around 20 to 30 degrees
2. Insert the tongue side of the laminate flooring into the groove of the previous row
3. Press the board downward and flat. It clicks into the locked position
4. Use a rubber mallet and tapping block to close any small gaps along the long edge
5. For the end joints, use a pull bar hooked against the end of the board to draw it tight against the previous board

Dealing With Obstructions

When you reach a radiator pipe, mark the centre of the pipe on the board. Drill a hole 20mm larger than the pipe diameter to allow for expansion. Cut the board in half through the drilled hole, fit both pieces around the pipe, and glue the cut edge back together. Use matching laminate repair paste to hide the joint.

Fitting Around Door Frames

Slide a piece of laminate under the door frame to check the gap. If it does not fit, use a flush-cut saw to undercut the bottom of the architrave and door lining. Slide the board underneath for a clean, professional finish. This avoids ugly notch cuts and exposed edges.

Pro Tip: Apply gentle tapping pressure when clicking rows together. Never force a board by hammering hard. If a board resists, check that the previous row is fully clicked in and that no debris sits in the groove.

Step 10: Cut Boards To Fit

Accurate cutting separates a professional-looking floor from an amateur one. Take accurate measurements and mark them clearly before every cut.

Straight Length Cuts

Use a mitre saw for clean, fast, straight cuts across the width of the board. Clamp the board firmly. Mark your line with a combination square. Cut just on the waste side of the pencil line to achieve the exact measurement.

Ripping Boards Lengthwise

Ripping means cutting along the length of the board. You need this for the final row against the wall. Measure the gap between the last fitted board and the wall. Subtract 10mm for the expansion gap. Mark this measurement along the full length of the board and cut with a circular saw. Clamp the board to a pair of sawhorses to keep it stable.

Cutting Around Obstacles

For curved cuts around toilet bases, pillars, or built-in furniture, make a cardboard template first. Cut the template carefully and test the fit. Once satisfied, transfer the template outline to the board and cut along the line with a jigsaw.

Cutting For a Herringbone Pattern

When laying a herringbone laminate flooring pattern, you make angled 45-degree cuts at the ends of each plank. Use a mitre saw set to 45 degrees. Start from the centre of the room with a reference line. Lay two boards in a V-shape as your anchor. Build outward from there, clicking each subsequent board into the previous one.

Safety: Always wear safety glasses when cutting laminate. The cutting process produces fine particles that carry a long distance. Use a dust mask rated FFP2 or higher when cutting indoors.

Step 11: Lay The Final Row

The last row often requires you to rip boards lengthwise. Follow the same ripping process described in Step 6. Use a pull bar to click the final boards into place. You cannot swing a mallet freely at the wall end, so the pull bar becomes essential.

Check that the expansion gap is consistent along the entire final wall before you consider this step complete. Slide the spacers out as you go and visually confirm the gap is 10mm to 12mm throughout.

Important: Remove all spacers and packers from around the entire perimeter once the last board is fitted. Forgotten spacers trapped under the skirting boards prevent the floor from expanding freely.

Step 12: Fit Skirting Boards, Beading & Threshold Strips

The finishing stage turns a good installation into a great one. Proper finishing covers all expansion gaps and gives the floor a polished, professional appearance.

Skirting Boards

If you removed your existing wall skirting before fitting the floor, reattach it now. Fix the skirting to the wall only. Never nail or glue it to the laminate floor. The floor must continue to move freely underneath.

Drill pilot holes and use screws with wall plugs to fix baseboards to masonry walls. Use a nail gun or finish nails on timber stud walls.

Scotia or Quadrant Beading

If you kept the baseboards in place during installation, fit a slim piece of scotia or quadrant beading along the bottom of the skirting to cover the expansion gap. Again, glue or pin the beading to the skirting board only. Never fix it to the floor.

Threshold Strips

Fit threshold strips wherever the laminate floor meets a different flooring type. This includes doorways leading to carpet, tile, or another hard floor. Threshold strips bridge the junction neatly and protect the exposed laminate edge from chipping.

Different strip profiles suit different situations. A T-bar profile works where two floors are at the same height. A reducer profile transitions from the laminate down to a lower floor level. A baby threshold works where the floor meets a wall with no skirting.

Mitre Corners on Skirting

At internal corners, cut the skirting at 45 degrees from each direction so the pieces meet in a neat mitre joint. At external corners, such as a chimney breast, cut the ends at 45 degrees in the opposite direction. A tight mitre joint looks far cleaner than a butt joint at corners.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

• Not acclimatising the boards: Boards fitted straight from delivery expand after installation and push against walls, causing buckling. Always wait 48 hours minimum.
• Skipping the moisture check: Moisture trapped under laminate causes boards to swell, warp, and separate. Always check before fitting, especially on concrete.
• Forgetting the expansion gap: This is the single most common cause of laminate floor failure. 10mm minimum around every fixed object.
• Not staggering the joints: Aligned joints weaken the floor structurally and look unprofessional. Offset end joints by at least 300mm between rows.
• Using the wrong underlay: Underlay without a damp-proof membrane on a concrete subfloor causes rapid moisture damage to the boards.
• Fixing skirting to the floor: Nailing skirting to the laminate pins the floor down and prevents natural movement. Fix the skirting to the wall only.

Aftercare: How to Keep Your Laminate Floor Looking Great

Laminate flooring is one of the easiest floor types to maintain. Follow these straightforward habits to keep it in excellent condition.

• Sweep or vacuum regularly. Use a soft brush attachment. Hard bristles and beater bars can scratch the surface.
• Wipe up spills immediately. Laminate is moisture-resistant but not waterproof. Standing water seeps into the joints and causes swelling.
• Use a damp, well-wrung mop for deeper cleaning. Never use a soaking wet mop.
• Avoid harsh chemical cleaners. Use a pH-neutral laminate floor cleaner.
• Fit felt pads beneath all furniture legs. This prevents scratching when chairs and tables move.
• Place a mat at external doorways to catch grit and moisture before it reaches the floor.
• Do not use steam mops on laminate. The intense heat and moisture damage the core and cause irreparable swelling.

Frequently Asked Questions | FAQs

1- How long does it take to lay laminate flooring?

An average room of 15m² takes an experienced DIYer approximately 4 to 6 hours to complete, not including subfloor preparation. Add an extra hour or two for rooms with many obstacles or complex cuts.

2- Can I lay laminate flooring in a bathroom or kitchen?

Standard laminate flooring is moisture-resistant but not waterproof. It tolerates occasional splashes but is not suitable for areas with constant wet exposure. Several manufacturers now produce waterproof laminate specifically designed for kitchens and bathrooms. Check the product specification before buying.

3- Does laminate flooring work with underfloor heating?

Yes. Most modern laminate boards are compatible with underfloor heating systems. Check the manufacturer’s guidelines for maximum temperature limits. Most specify a maximum floor surface temperature of 27 degrees Celsius. Choose an underlay with a tog rating of 1.5 or below.

4- Can I lay laminate over existing laminate?

Technically, yes, but it is rarely recommended. Double-layering raises the floor height, creates problems at door thresholds, and hides any moisture issues in the original floor. Remove the old floor if at all possible.

5- What causes laminate flooring to squeak?

Squeaking almost always comes from boards rubbing against each other or against an uneven subfloor. The most common causes are an uneven subfloor, missing underlay, expansion gaps that are too tight, or boards that were not fully clicked together during installation.

6- How do I fix a gap between boards?

Small gaps sometimes appear after installation due to temperature change. If boards are free-floating, gently tap them back together using a tapping block and rubber mallet. For persistent gaps, check whether something is preventing normal movement at the perimeter. A forgotten spacer or skirting fixed to the floor is usually the cause.

Final Thoughts

Laying laminate flooring is one of the most satisfying DIY flooring projects you can complete at home. The materials are accessible, the process is logical, and the results genuinely transform a room.

The difference between a floor that lasts a decade and one that fails within a year comes down to preparation. Check your subfloor. Acclimatise your boards. Leave the expansion gaps. Choose the right underlay. Follow these fundamentals, and the rest of the process becomes straightforward. Follow each step methodically, take accurate measurements, and do not rush the cuts.